Climbing Condoriri, also known as Cabeza del Cóndor (Condor Head), at 5,648 meters is one of the most impressive mountaineering objectives in the Condoriri massif. As the highest and most technically demanding peak in the area, Condoriri stands out as a truly remarkable mountain. Its unmistakable condor-shaped silhouette features outstretched wings to the north and south, crowned by the imposing head summit.
The AD+ route to the summit is varied and engaging, combining a glacier approach, a technical couloir, and an exposed ridge leading to the top. The loose scree slope encountered on the approach is best appreciated on the descent, providing a faster and more enjoyable return.
The Condoriri area offers more than a dozen additional peaks surrounding Laguna Chiarkhota, which serves as the base camp and starting point for climbs throughout the massif.
Physical Requirements
To Climb Cabeza Del Condor at 5648m. variety of scenarios and the skills are needed. Wich makes it an exciting challenged to many mountaineers.
Weather Conditions
As its high altitude, it is constantly cold all year round, with temperatures dropping below 0 degrees celsius. Most of the time is around – 15 degrees during the climb.
For that reason is recomended to climb with suitable equipment.
Best season to climb
The best season to climb is between May to September, as this is the dry season in Bolivia, and will ensure optimal climbing conditions.
ITINERARY:
08:30 Pick-up from your hotel or meeting at our office in La Paz, Bolivia.
09:00 Departure by private transport. We drive for approximately 3 hours out of the city and across the Andean highlands to Rinconada (4,500 m / 14,764 ft), where the trek begins.
13:00 Trekking for about 2 hours to reach Condoriri Base Camp (4,700 m / 15,420 ft).
15:00 Arrival at Base Camp. Free time in the afternoon to relax and enjoy stunning views of Condoriri, accompanied by hot drinks.
17:00 Dinner and overnight in tents or at the mountain refuge.
We depart Base Camp at 02:00 am.
The ascent begins with a hike across a moraine slope leading to the foot of the glacier. Upon reaching the glacier, we put on all technical equipment and begin climbing snow and ice slopes with an inclination of 40–45 degrees.
At the base of the Condoriri Head, we enter a narrow couloir featuring a mix of technical ice and rock climbing. After completing this pitch, we reach the ridge crest, which we then follow along an exposed and scenic line toward the summit.
Finally, we arrive at the summit of Condoriri (Cabeza del Cóndor) at 5,648 m / 18,530 ft, rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding Cordillera Real.
The descent follows the same route back to Base Camp, with an estimated arrival time of around 1:00 pm. From there, we continue walking for approximately 1 hour to Rinconada, where our vehicle will be waiting to transfer us back to La Paz.
Estimated arrival in La Paz: around 6:00 pm.
